dawn, the birds chirp
off the glass the sky
looks thirsty
after all that rain
last night;
the sun going down over the gorge, the
river brown swollen, fat
fast moving current
the Guatemalan man, incredulous, that
one would lodge oneself in a small plastic boat
and head out into that.
but,
the sky is iridescent, high-lit- blue and yellow,
the clouds going purple, pink, strung across the
raging golden sun, the tumult above center wave
a big brown hump - locked in it’s almost vertigo
inducing, a shifting sluice, the chaos, constrained by gravity
shaping up into one glossy wave.
the morning. the brown is still up.
the feeder looks almost the same, but beyond the trees,
a violence stirs
the low violets are almost all dead, back into the ground
for the next season’s food, and the tropical bloom is upon us.
It’s a long quiet flat fast stretch until the waves kick in, and then
a calm like no other, j-man gets eaten by a wave, unfazed, I’m back surfing, shred
has already passed the tongue and is going straight for the hole where the rocks used to mark the takeout.
i make the eddy and watch two heads disappear into the raging foam, reappear down by the bridge and make it to the rocks, hiking back up.
the dinosaur sleeps but the waves off her back form and collapse
exploding with a fury I used to think was lunacy
and now is church.